9 essential elements for a cockatoo to roam freely in your house

If you let your bird spend TONS of time out of its cage, like I do with my Goffin’s Cockatoo, Boo, you’re going to need a few things to keep your sanity. I use the term “free-range cockatoo” because Boo spends most of his time outside of his cage and is pretty much a “house bird” (except he goes into his cage when I’m away for an extended period of time or when he’s in his sleeping cage at bedtime). The phrase also makes me LOL. The items on my list seem to fall into the home cleaning and upkeep categories.

Here are some products I own and use, or wish I had:

  1. A good vacuum, for carpeted areas. Right now, I’m using a Eureka that clogs every five minutes. Somehow it does the job. I’m thinking the Hoover F5918-900 SteamVac Spinscrub Pet is going to be my next purchase, although Dyson is hands down the leader in pet vacuums. I’ve had a lot of luck with shop vacs in the past, but they’re pretty ugly…and if you’re like me, you won’t want to put the vac away because you’ll only be using it. again in a few hours.
  2. A good floor cleaner, not carpet! I just use a regular $10 mop from Walmart with something to mop up.
  3. As for cleaners, it’s important that they’re non-toxic, especially if your bird is likely to put its mouth where you’ve cleaned (unless you’re deep cleaning and scrubbing the pristine corners of your home, and even then, better prevent to cure). I’m a big fan of the Poop Off, especially the one with the nifty brush cap. I find it works great on carpets and floors, and the brush bottle is always out in case of a quick cleanup, which was needed about every 20 minutes until Boo decided to potty train.
  4. Pet dig up! Boo is afraid of random inanimate objects, so placing a “Scared Boo” where I don’t want him to chew always works… for at least 20 minutes. Boo is quite stubborn and quickly realizes that NOTHING in the house will eat or hurt him (the downside of raising him so well), so this doesn’t work out so well. The best way to prevent damage to my home is to not have what I don’t want him to chew on out of his reach. This was VERY hard to do when he was a baby going through the wire-chewing stage, and that was one of the rare bad behaviors where I actively punished him (since he could die if he encountered a live wire). Unfortunately, I made the mistake of punishing him with a spray bottle and to this day he hates being sprayed or misted (but at least he learned real quick not to chew on my electronic wires!). I haven’t found a commercially available parrot deterrent that works yet, but I just found Bitter Apple for Birds and I’m going to give it a try. Pepper solutions don’t work and do the opposite of making you chew MORE, because you love spicy flavors. Oh, and the tin foil worked for about a day, until he found he could find the tasty door frame by ripping it off.
  5. Newspaper. I put this under where Boo likes to sit a lot. It’s free, if you get the documents from the local cafeteria community. If you’re worried about newspaper on the floor looking like your house is a birdcage, use clear plastic (to make it look like you’re one of those rare people who keeps everything preserved) or carpet scraps (which can look white trash, so especially don’t use it if you’re in a mobile home). I find that putting old bills and mail where Boo likes to poop can feel like they’re there “accidentally” (which gives the impression that I’m atotalsluggard). Unfortunately, there is no aesthetically pleasing solution to bird poop.
  6. A Parrot Playstand is essential. Currently, I am using a pendant that I put together from a wire curtain hanger, a rope hanger, and a rope swing. After being afraid of the wire hanger for a whole day, Boo decided this was the place to perch, and now he sits in the spot that looks the most uncomfortable and chews on the bumps on my textured ceiling. Hanging game stands are NOT recommended for aggressive or fearful birds. I’m dying for a Manzanita activity tree. Being able to carry the playstation around the house with you is almost a necessity and will help you control the screaming, the amount of poop you have to clean up, and the destruction your pet bird can cause. Of course, it’s important to train your bird to stay in the game stall, otherwise you’ll have wasted a lot of time and possibly money. What has worked for me and Boo: Make it the ONLY place you give your bird “treats” (except his cage), and give him TONS of attention when he’s playing on the play stand. Having a play stall, even an extra cool and expensive one, is no excuse for giving your bird less attention; it is only a preventive measure of destruction of houses.
  7. Things that are “okay” for your bird to destroy, possibly disguised as household items. Commercially available bird toys are great, but can be expensive to replace. Parrots are supposed to destroy toys, and it’s as good for your sanity as crossword puzzles are for people, so don’t complain about the price! If you noticed the toilet paper roll on Boo’s hanging hanger…it’s a really cheap fun toy. Boo also likes cat balls and take-home paper boxes with treats inside. Anything that is fun to scoop or mash food is usually a hit in my house. One of Boo’s favorite pet shop toys is a parrot piñata – he loves to chew on this relatively inexpensive toy!
  8. Treats are also essential, especially if you want your bird to stay at his play stall or not chew on other things in your home. Boo loves pasta, pizza, and eggs. I’m kind of a health freak, so I often eat from my bowl of soy milk and whole grain cereal. Since the vet recently reprimanded me for going on a 70% parrot diet (for good reason, as there has been a ton of recent research on the dietary needs of parrots and cockatiels), I have been buying more than its yummy from the pet section instead of the human section. Lafebers Parrot Avi-Cakes are Boo’s all-time favorite, and are good for hiding in paper towel tubes and other places to encourage foraging and keep him entertained. Treats also often function as toys.
  9. …that’s about it, as far as the actual products I use or want to use with my Goffins Cockatoo! The final essential to owning a pet bird is bonding with your companion and paying close attention to him so he thinks you’re the guru at what’s fun and popular. Taking time to redirect destructive behavior to more acceptable objects is a must, as is convincing your bird that his toys and treats are MUCH cooler than the boring pens, computers, and electronics you have elsewhere in the house.
cold feet and hot dogs

In an effort to keep their feet warm, the men of Colonial America developed the practice of bringing their dogs into local churches and meeting houses. They put a blanket around their legs and feet under or over the dog. Both man and dog were happy. One can only imagine the chaos this must have caused, as the practice was generally banned in the early 18th century.

Although nothing can replace man’s best friend, the foot warmer evolved to meet the need for warmth in the winter, as churches and meeting places did not have heating sources until around 1734. The foot warmer was placed underfoot with a blanket by the legacy. It can also be used on the sleigh or in the carriage.

As is the case with most antiquities, design innovations give us important clues to dating. The first foot warmers were wooden boxes. They had a door on the side drilled holes in the wood and a small metal plate inside to hold the coals. Later, perforated tin sides with perforated decorative patterns such as hearts, circles or stars were introduced. Foot warmers were even made for two. They are rare today and tend to sell for more than other items in this collectible category. There was also a combination of flashlight and foot warmers, which would light the way to and from the carriage in “pre-Edison” America. Patents for this innovation were filed in 1854 and 1865.

In the mid-1800s, the foot warmer finds its way into American Victorian homes. Foot warmers intended for domestic use usually have some decorative elements, and were intended to carry hot water or charcoal. They were usually made of stoneware, pewter, or carpeted tin. Pewter foot warmers keep water hot for about three hours, so they can still be used in today’s eco-friendly world.

At a recent auction in California, an 18th century wood burning heater sold for $1,000.00. Since California was settled later than the rest of the country, these early examples are much rarer there. Auction prices typically range from $20.00 to $500.00, which fits most collecting budgets.

The diversity of shapes, materials, innovation and prices make foot warmers a diverse collection field. This isn’t a well-known collectible category, as you might guess, so you can build up a huge collection for some cold cash and still keep your feet warm.

Five essential pet supplies for your new pup

Shopping for pet supplies can be an overwhelming experience. Gone are the days when all a dog needed was a bone. Modern pet stores are filled with aisle after aisle of eye-catching options. Hidden within that vast selection are a handful of must-have items every new puppy owner needs. Here are five of them.

1. Adjustable collar and leash

As well as being a legal requirement when in public spaces, a comfortable leash and collar is needed for walking, training and identification. Since your new best friend will most likely grow up, it’s important to find an adjustable collar that attaches quickly and easily to a sturdy leash. When it comes to the material, most experts recommend nylon collars. They are generally lighter and less cumbersome than most other options. As for the leash, it is important to buy a shorter one (between 4 and 6 feet) that will keep your pet close during obedience training.

2. Boxes, Cages or Pens

Because they help with house training and behavior issues, many trainers recommend purchasing some type of crate for a new puppy. Dogs have a natural den instinct that makes them feel safer and more comfortable in enclosed spaces. As such, a nice cage can be used to establish healthy sleep patterns early on. The choice of a cage, crate or playpen comes down to the individual owner. Because they are often easier to move around, many new owners prefer cages to cages or pens.

3. Food and water bowls

From plastic bowls to stainless steel dishes to glass bowls, there is no shortage of food and water bowls at pet supply stores. Because you want your pup to get into the habit of eating from the same place, it’s always a good idea to keep food and water bowls in the same place in your home. While the choice of material is, again, at the discretion of the owner, it’s probably a bad idea to buy plastic bowls for breeds known to chew, such as Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Shetland Sheepdogs, Jack Russell Terriers, beagle, the Siberian husky, or Shiba Inus.

4. Dog bed

Because puppies are used to sleeping in a warm environment, alongside their mothers and siblings, a new owner will want to recreate this cozy environment. When placed inside a cage, a comfortable and comfortable dog bed can help recreate their natural habitat. Covered in wool or sheepskin, the smaller beds and padded beds are designed to stay warm and cozy indoors. From cheap pillows and cushions to expensive memory foam mattresses, there are plenty of attractive options at your local pet store.

5.Food

Just like babies, puppies have unique dietary demands and nutritional needs. To help it grow healthy and strong, you should feed your furry friend a special diet for the first year. Unlike generic dog foods, these food products are often labeled “formulated for puppies” or “growth and development.”

Shopping for pet supplies is easy if you know what to look for. These five must-have items should be purchased before you bring your new friend home.

Senegal Parrot – 5 Personality Traits That Make The Senegal A Great Pet Parrot

The African Senegal Parrot has made its way onto the list of top picks for pet birds. Here are 5 of his best personality traits that help make him a great choice for a pet parrot.

Quieter than many parrots-Sometimes the Senegal appears as a calm bird, which is absolutely true, except when it is not. Although they are not prone to screeching and screeching as often as some parrots, when they want to be heard, they have no problem doing so. In their defense, they are not usually loud except when they are excited or want attention. And as always, a lot will depend on your individual bird.

can be entertained-These are fairly independent birds that do well without another bird sharing the cage with them. With a variety of toys that rotate in and out of the cage frequently, they are happy to spend their days exploring, swinging, climbing, and chewing on their toys for stimulation. They will still need to spend several hours out of the crate each day to get adequate exercise. They will also need several hours of daily human interaction to remain docile and continue to build trust and affection between keeper and bird.

talkers-Many learn to speak well, while others tend to sound mechanical when speaking. There are still others who never learn to speak but enjoy whistling and imitating household sounds like doorbells, alarm clocks or microwaves. There are a number of videos and books written on the best way to get your bird to talk, but ultimately they are no guarantee that your chosen bird will. The best way to make sure your bird talks is to listen to it speak before you buy it.

highly trainable-Senegalese enjoy short but regular training sessions for tricks with the result of great tricks and a stronger bond between you and your bird. Remember to go slow, be consistent, and reward with a treat when he’s done a good job for you. Never, ever scold or punish your bird if it doesn’t meet your expectations. This will only insult your relationship with your bird and decrease the chances of your parrot learning the trick.

funny and entertaining-With proper toys, perches, ropes and a swing or two, they are energetic birds that are very entertaining. Watching them can be a lovely way to relax whenever you have a minute to watch the show.

How to stop a dog fight: 5 tips to separate them

There are generally two types of dogfighting: illegal dogfighting and dogfighting over a favorite bone or someone in a heat cycle. But stopping a dog fight in any way can be dangerous if the person involved is seriously injured or killed trying to stop the fight, depending on the severity and the breed of the dogs involved. This article will focus on dog fighting in general and offer five tips on how to stop a dog fight without getting hurt.

Tip #1

If the dogfight is between two small to medium sized dogs, have the owners or two people grab the dogs by the hind legs and quickly separate them in a circular or twisting motion.

Once the dogs quickly part completely, hold on to their hind legs at all costs or they will come back to attack the other dog or you. Each person should take her dog to separate rooms or her own fenced yard while the dogs surround each other simultaneously. Speed ​​is essential.

Tip #2

If he’s alone, stay calm and quickly grab a leash or something similar to separate the two dogs.

Quickly get a leash and wrap it around one of the furthest areas of the dog (around the lower back above the hind leg area). Grab the other dog by the hind legs and pull the dog up. The dogs will keep trying to attack each other, so quickly move the tethered and held dogs to somewhere where the leash can be attached, allowing the dog in hand to move to a separate location.

Tip #3

Many trainers advise never using a stun gun, pepper spray, or cattle prod to break up a dog fight. Others suggest using a water bottle filled with vinegar, as it will entertain the fighting dogs momentarily, at least long enough to separate them.

What will happen is that the moment the dog feels the prod, pepper spray, or stun gun, it will instantly assume the other dog is the culprit, escalating the attack.

Tip #4

“A dog can bite only one person at a time”: This may be a true statement, but it sure doesn’t make me feel any better. And you? A dog bite can be avoided by keeping your hands and legs away from the fighting dogs head and teeth at all times.

When dogs fight, the last thing they think is that last week they learned to “sit” and “stay” while biting their owner on the leg or hand. Little Fido isn’t the sweet dog he was last week…right now, anyway. He is defending himself, his favorite toy or his property, ironically, which may be the hand he just bit off.

Tip #5

Use a brake stick for pitbulls or aggressive and ferocious dog attacks as it will be impossible to gain quick control without one. Raising the hind legs of pit bulls or similar breeds to break up their dog fights will not work as their bites are made to rip and tear.

The jaws of the pit bull and many other aggressive dog breeds use the “lock and hold” mechanism. This makes separation control for dog fights even worse, as the damage to the other dog involves tearing of muscle and skin.

The only way to break up this type of fight is to spread their jaws with a breaking rod (necessary in multi-dog households) while someone else ties up the dogs for control. This can be dangerous as all the fighting dogs will redirect their anger and attack when they get separated as they are still in attack mode. Knowing how to stop a dog fight involves a lot of things, but breeds should always be considered first.

Tips for parents: how to deal with behavior problems among children

Behavior disorders are among the most common problems parents have with their children. Behavior problems can manifest in their habits, due to psychological disorders, and can affect social relationships. Mothers and fathers need to understand the reason for their children’s behavior problems in order to help and encourage them.

Here are some routine behavior problems that moms and dads have to deal with:

psychological disorders

Psychological disorders can cause anxiety, depression, aggression, and can affect a child’s mental performance. This may be the result of a distressing experience such as abuse or injury. It could easily be due to sudden family changes or issues such as separation, illness, or death.

Children may not immediately respond to painful occasions, particularly when it would involve separation or separation, death, or an addition to the family. When changes like these happen, it’s important to encourage them to share their feelings. The changes must be explained to them before the occasion.

Children of different age levels would respond differently to uncomfortable events. In younger children, it may show up in their sleeping and eating habits. Teens and adults often show changes in their social relationships with their families, friends, and school performance.

Clothing

Habits such as thumb sucking, nail biting, hair pulling, hitting or biting themselves can be a response to circumstances in which children may experience stress and pressure. To address these, mothers and fathers must reinforce the positive development of young people. Meanwhile, habits like thumb sucking are more fortunately ignored.

trouble sleeping

All of the children seem to have experienced sleep or nighttime problems, such as nightmares, bedwetting, or bedwetting. For example, about 20% of five-year-olds urinate in bed. When they arrived in the country at the age of 10, the percentage is only 5%. About 2-3% of children who wet the bed wet the bed as a result of medical conditions and problems.

Bedwetting can be an effect of illness, a small bladder, food allergies, hormonal imbalances, sleep apnea, constipation, social changes, and stress. Nightmare is the other night theme. It is essential to talk with children who have trouble sleeping.

For bedwetters, make sure they feel confident that bedwetting is typical. Never humiliate them or physically punish them for wetting the blankets. There are different remedy methods that mothers and fathers would benefit from using to help resolve bedwetting such as alarms, medication use, schedules, and of course encouragement.

Night terrors, nightmares, sleepwalking, and sleep talking are other sleep problems. You could start by having a relaxing bedtime routine to stabilize children, calm them down and calm their fears. If sleep problems continue and disrupt your child’s activities, there are sleep specialists and doctors who can help.

feeding problems

Children can be picky eaters and can end up not getting the right amount of nutrition that they need. Eating problems can include refusing to eat, playing and not eating at dinner, and eating things that are not food.

Children may refuse or waste time when they have something to eat if they want attention, too much pressure from moms and dads, mealtimes are not enjoyable, or they may be full. It is important to plan your meals. For example, if they wanted to snack so close to lunchtime, you could provide them with a small proportion of snacks that would still leave them interested in eating during lunchtime. Make sure there are no toys, TV, and other disturbances during dinner time.

Children may have eating disorders if they are dealing with complex circumstances and emotions. Talk and reassure them. In any case, they are still children, they are still confused about things and their feelings.

Another food problem is when young people eat non-food products. This disorder is known as Pica. This complaint may be a consequence of nutritional deficiencies pointing to specific hunger pangs, mental problems, parental neglect, or food deprivation.

Children typically exhibit behavior problems because they are continually learning and adapting to their world. Changes, simple or drastic, can have a big impact on them that parents sometimes overlook. Talking, encouraging, reassuring, and professional help (if needed) may help parents deal with these complaints.

Everything you need to know about the Goldendoodle!

Today’s dogs are a very important part of a family environment. They keep us entertained, they put smiles on our faces, they are our children’s best friends, they are there to talk to us when we feel lonely and have no one else! They love us unconditionally and bring an abundance of joy and love to a family. There is no doubt in my mind that since the dawn of time dogs have been known as man’s best friend!

Golden doodles are no exception. A golden doodle is a mix between a golden retriever and a poodle. Australian breeders began breeding this cross in the mid-1980s and North American breeders have been breeding them since the mid-1990s. They were first bred in Australia as guide dogs for people in need! larger dog and allergy friendly!

Goldendoodles are amazing and healthy family dogs for many reasons!

First of all, the mix between a poodle and a retriever gives the doodle a quality known as “hybrid vigor” (the offspring of genetically different parents), which means that mixed breed dogs are typically healthier and live longer than poodles. purebred ones. This is because most genetic traits are recessive. Golden’s and Poodles don’t have many diseases in common, so if both parents don’t have a particular trait for a certain disease, the puppies can’t get it. This is why many mixed breed dogs, including the goldendoodle, are healthier than purebreds. You still have to choose your breeder carefully and make sure they are doing all the required health tests, temperament tests, and researching the lines thoroughly before you breed your dogs, but in general mixed breeds are more genetically sound!

Goldendoodles also possess many qualities of both the poodle and the golden. Most Goldendoodles are friendly, highly intelligent, goofy dogs who love to be part of the family. They love to swim, play fetch and interact with people. They are very social dogs and love to be active and have fun. I have donated dogs as therapy and service dogs and the doodle excels at this type of work! As a breeder I hear hundreds of stories about how smart these dogs are and how they are at the top of their puppy class and how they are the best dogs my clients have ever had.

Most Scribbles have a very low or no shed coat. This depends on the dog and the type of fur it has. There are 3 different coat types, Wool (which is a tight curl and the most hypoallergenic), Fleece (which is wavy and usually remains very low and hypoallergenic), and Fur (which is smoother and generally sheds the most). An experienced breeder can usually tell when the puppy is 6-7 weeks old what type of coat he will have as an adult and the breeder will help find the right puppy for her needs. Goldendoodles’ fur will continue to grow and can be anywhere from 3 to 8 inches long if left uncut. A doodle requires regular brushing or it will get matted and you need to go to the groomer for a clip every 4 months or so!

Goldendoodles also come in many colors and sizes depending on the poodle used. In our kennel we breed blonde, gold, apricot, red, black, silver and ghost doodles. We also have 3 different sizes, standard (anything over 21″ and 50lbs and up), mini (13″ to 20″ and 25-49lbs), and tiny (12″ and under 10-24lbs).

Their life expectancy is usually 12-15 years for Standards and 14-17 years for Minis.

Doodles also come in many different generations, and depending on what you’re looking for, one generation may be better than another. The F1’s are a purebred golden mixed with a purebred poodle. This generation is usually the healthiest and possesses the most “hybrid vigor” traits. F1b is a backcross and is a goldendoodle crossed with a poodle. These types of golden doodle are usually better for those with severe allergies, as the f1b usually has a curlier coat than the f1 (note that this is not always the case and your breeder will be able to help you with this). F2 is a goldendoodle bred back to a goldendoodle. The pups in a litter of f2 tend not to sway as much in one direction or the other. They seem to be a good mix between golden and poodle (sometimes, but not always, in an f1 litter some pups will swing more towards a golden, some more towards a poodle, and some will be in between), f3 (f3 and highest is also known as multi-spawn) is and f2 golden doodle re-spawns to f2 golden doodle and f4 is a f3 golden doodle re-spawns to f3 golden doodle. The more you breed them with each other, the more you lose the hybrid vigor trait. A seventh generation goldendoodle (f7) is eligible for registration as a thoroughbred (this has not been done to my knowledge).

As I mentioned before, goldendoodles are healthier than most purebred dogs, but breeders should still do all the testing on the parents. It is better to expect a good quality puppy from a great breeder than to support careless breeders who just want to breed as many puppies as possible without worrying about the breed as a whole.

If you buy your golden doodle puppy from a one-of-a-kind breeder, you may end up with a lot of health problems and expensive vet bills.

Tests required for the Breeding of Golden Retrievers

1. Hips (HD) OFA or Pennhip or OVC

2. eyes (CERF) Mandatory Annual

3. Cores… tested and certified by OFA

4. Elbows (OFA)

Tests Required for Breeding Standard Poodles

1. Hips (HD) OFA or Pennhip or OVC

2. OFA elbows

3. Eyes (CERF) required annually

4. Von Willebrands (vWd) blood or DNA test (bleeding disorder)

5. Sebaceous adenitis (SA) skin disorder

* Thyroid Malfunction – Not required, but highly recommended for all breeding dogs.

Required tests for breeding miniature and toy poodles.

1. Hips for HD and Legg-Perves disease OFA, Penn hip or OVC

2. Knees to dislocate the patella

3. Eyes (CERF) required annually

4. Von Willebrands disease (vWd) DNA or blood test

* Thyroid Malfunction – Not required, but highly recommended for all breeding dogs.

I have given you a brief description of the doodle. If you have more questions about this breed, you can visit my website. These dogs are becoming very popular and I have no doubt why. They are amazing with children and can live in almost any kind of environment. The best way to describe these amazing dogs is “Little People in Fur Coats.”

Homeopathic medicine could work for your pet

Homeopathy has started to become a very popular method of treating animals. Many critics say that this form of alternative medicine does not work. The results that homeopathy gives are due to the fact that people think they have taken something that will help them get better. This phenomenon is called the placebo effect. However, the improvement in pets after taking these types of drugs seems to contradict the placebo effect.

Throughout Europe and Asia, many veterinarians practice treating animals ranging from cats, dogs, horses, and other animals with homeopathic pet medications. The practice is less common in the US, but more veterans have been trying this form of alternative medicine.

Homeopathic veterinarians typically prescribe unique remedies to help with a pet’s medical condition. This is called classical homeopathy. Pets with chronic conditions may need to change remedies to correct their diets. A veterinarian trained in classical homeopathy will prescribe different medications for different animals. They will examine the pet’s behavior and prescribe a remedy based on its behavior. Remedies should be changed after the pet’s condition changes. Chronic illness in pets may require several homeopathic remedies before the illness clears up.

People who care for their pets and don’t have access to a homeopathic pet doctor have been trying combination remedies for pets. Combinations of homeopathic medicines for pets have become popular in the US Combination medicines usually contain several homeopathic remedies in a single pill. Many health food stores and large pet retail stores, such as Petsmart, offer combination homeopathic remedies, such as Homeopet and Equiopathics.

These combination remedies treat a wide range of acute conditions, including anxiety, cough, travel anxiety, and pet skin and itch relief. Many of these combination medications are easy to use. People can simply put the remedy in their pet’s water bowl or food tray.

There have been some trials with homeopathic medicines for pets.

A pilot study was conducted with 767 individual pets consisting of 547 dogs, 155 cats, 50 horses, 5 rabbits, 4 guinea pigs, 2 birds, 2 goats, 1 cow, and 1 tortoise.

The study found that the dogs responded well to homeopathy for arthritis pain and epilepsy. Cats that do not respond as well to atopic dermatitis, gingivitis and hyperthyroidism

Most people don’t even know they are buying homeopathic remedies for their pets with these combination medications. They are simply looking the other way to cure acute conditions without having to make an expensive trip to the vet’s office. Sales of homeopathic combination remedies for pets have been strong. Many people feel that their pets have improved by taking these types of medications.

Scenic drives to see fall colors in Northern California

While a Northeast fall is something to behold, the West Coast also has something spectacular to offer when it comes to fall colors.

The changing colors of autumn leaves have to do with changing temperature and altitude, so the colors typically peak at different times in different regions. To make sure you don’t miss out on the best parts of the season, stay connected with people you know who live in the area. Ask them to update you on what they can see as they drive through your city. You can also do some research and be aware of the areas that receive the most beautiful changes each year, then find out from local visitor bureaus when they are expected to peak before planning your trips. The National Forest Service also has a hotline with weekly updates on color change this season for the entire United States: 1-800-354-4595

Prepare your cup of hot coffee or hot tea, good music, a companion, your camera and you are ready to hit the road for a scenic drive.

Here is a list of some drives in Northern California that are usually beautiful this time of year, guaranteed to show you reds, oranges, and yellows:

oTake HWY 299 East from Redding towards Burney, turn right onto HWY 89 and drive all the way through Lassen National Volcanic Park. From there take 36 to Red Bluff and then I-5 back to Redding to complete the loop.

oTake HWY 299 West toward Weaverville. Any opportunity you see to take a marked off-road trail is a guaranteed way to walk to soak in the color. After Weaverville, you can continue west to the coast, or head north on HWY 3 to the Trinity Heritage Scenic Byway.

o Plumas County is famous for its fall color shows. From Lassen NVP, you can continue south on HWY 89 and merge onto the Feather River Scenic Byway near Quincy.

oTo the north, the pass over the Warner Mountains is also spectacular; taking HWY 299 from Alturas to Cedarville will bring your trip to life. Ask the locals about the back roads while you’re there.

oA drive through the Modoc National Forest from Adin to Susanville along HWY 139 is another of Northern California’s hidden fall secrets.

Enjoy the colors, they don’t last long!

Tenant’s rights and pets: the landlord against his cat

Too often I hear from people who are giving up their beloved family pet because the landlord enacted a new no pet policy, or because they are moving into a rental property that has a no pet policy. Less often, I also hear from owners who allow cats but require declawing.

Before you agree to a rental policy that costs your family, disrupts your life, and harms your pet, there are a few steps you need to take.

know your rights

Did you know that, as a tenant, you have certain rights? Each area will have its own set of rules and bylaws for tenants and landlords, but don’t assume your landlord is following these rules. Make sure you know what your rights are regarding your lease and your pets before you are forced to do anything.

For example, did you know that in Ontario your landlord cannot evict you or force you to get rid of your pet unless it is dangerous, causing excessive noise, damage to the unit or allergy problems? Even if you signed a lease with a no pets agreement, they can’t evict you. No pet clauses are considered invalid under the law and the only way you can be evicted for having a pet is if the Ontario Landlord-Tenant Board determines that the pet meets one of the above criteria. This means that while a landlord may choose not to rent to someone who has pets, once you’ve started your tenancy and moved out, you can’t be evicted for having pets.

Laws will vary depending on where you are, but don’t be intimidated into disrupting your life or the life of your cat when the law may be on your side. To be informed.

Don’t capitulate, negotiate

If local laws do not protect you or your pets, then the next step is not to give up and give in, but to negotiate and educate your owners.

Most owners who do not allow pets or who require cats to be declawed have these policies because they are concerned about property damage. Noise, allergies and crowds in common areas such as the lobby or the façade can also be a factor.

As a responsible pet owner, it is worth trying to educate your landlord on why these policies are wrong and unnecessary. If you can provide reasonable alternatives so the landlord can feel that his interests are sufficiently served, he may be able to convince you to change your rental policies.

  1. Acknowledge their concerns. Be courteous and reasonable and let them know you understand their concerns and respect their desire to maintain a clean and well-maintained building.
  2. Explain normal cat behavior. The people who create the policy may not be familiar with the behavior of cats. Explain that cats can be easily trained to use a scratching post instead of a mat, and that they instinctively prefer to bury their waste in a clean litter box rather than deposit it anywhere. Explain that cats do not normally scratch walls, doors, and trim, and that even an untrained cat is more likely to scratch a tenant’s furniture than destroy the unit itself. Let them know that you will provide a clean litter box and appropriate surfaces for your cat to scratch on.
  3. Let them know that your cats are spayed/neutered. Explain that spaying/neutering eliminates undesirable cat behaviors that may concern them, such as meowing, marking territory with urine and feces, fighting, and attracting strays to the area. Let them know that these behaviors are typical of intact animals and that theirs have been corrected.
  4. assure them that your cat will be in a carrier or on a leash whenever you are in a public area. Animals running loose can be dangerous and nuisance. Assure them that their cat will be under control at all times.
  5. Explain what declawing is and that it often results in other undesirable behavior. Many people don’t understand what declawing is and have no idea that it can result in even more undesirable behavior, like urinating outside the litter box. Make it clear that declawing is unnecessary and cruel and that if they are worried about the cat scratching them, there are alternatives, such as Softpaws. [http://www.softpaws.com/]that I would be willing to use.
  6. Please provide documentation to support your claims. Please provide supporting evidence from reliable sources to back up what you are saying. Best Friends Network offers many great resources for renters who need to remove their nails: http://network.bestfriends.org/celebrateclawsnotdeclaw/news/16849.html. If your landlord requires declawing, talk to your vet; they may be able to provide you with a document or letter that supports your position against declawing.
  7. Offer to pay additional security deposit. Reassure them that while your cat is trained and you don’t expect it to destroy anything, if the cat damages anything in the unit, you will take responsibility for repairing or replacing it. Show that you are serious by offering to pay a higher security deposit.
  8. Remind them that a responsible renter is a responsible renter, and by the same token, an irresponsible renter will cause problems even without pets. Your rental agreement should already cover problem tenants, such as those who cause excessive noise, disruption, or property damage.
  9. Offer to provide recommendations on writing a rental policy that allows pets but protects your building and other tenants. If you can do some of the legwork for them, saving them time and effort, they may be more willing to make changes.

 

your last resort

If your landlord is unwilling to listen or work with you and insists that you get rid of your pets or have them declawed, then you have a difficult decision to make. It may be time to consider moving to a pet-friendly home, or if that’s not feasible, you may need to rehouse your pets. I don’t think declawing your cat is an acceptable compromise.

Ideally, you’ll be able to find a new place that allows pets on your lease. Otherwise, properties owned by individuals may provide more flexibility than large rental companies when it comes to pet policies; At the very least, it may be easier for you to gain access to someone who has the power to make that decision.

If moving isn’t an option and you need to relocate your pets, do your best to find a new home yourself, rather than leave your cat in a shelter. All shelters have a large number of cats and very few adopters, and your cat is at risk of being in a cage for an extended period of time or being euthanized if not adopted quickly. Use all the resources at your disposal: friends and family, community billboards, Freecycle (if your local listing allows it), and Craigslist. You will feel much better knowing that your cat will go to a home instead of a cage and you will have a say in the type of home your cat will go to.

Contact your local governing body that handles landlord and tenant laws and enforce them to create statutes that protect pet owners without compromising the safety and integrity of owners’ properties.

Through responsible pet ownership and proactively promoting understanding through education, we can encourage landlords to establish reasonable rental rules and decrease discrimination against pet owners.